Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas is the brand’s most complete collection of watches for everyday wear. Within it you’ll find superb chronographs, a perpetual calendar, straight-ahead time-only models and even an easy-to-read world timer. And ever since Vacheron Constantin several years ago built into Overseas a standard selection of interchangeable straps and–most critically– an excellent steel bracelet for many models, the collection has attracted buyers who may have considered most other Vacheron Constantin selections too traditional or too dressy.
For 2018, those buyers will have another watch in Overseas to consider. As an early debut launched a few months ahead of its full 2018 collection (which we’ll see at SIHH in Geneva in mid-January), the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time only intensifies the attraction of the Overseas collection. This new model replaces an earlier Overseas Dual Time, a watch that was conspicuously missing when Vacheron Constantin re-lunched the Overseas in 2016. This update boasts a more attractive dial design than we saw on the earlier example, which also means this watch is easier to read.
The design upgrade is evident on several fronts. This new dual timer makes your home time quite clear with a triangle-tipped hand. The watch, now 41mm instead of 42mm, offers far fewer dial distractions. Vacheron Constantin wisely removed the power reserve indicator and the second subdial that displayed the home time, clearing the way for an almost instant-read dial. Another attractive new feature is the fact that Vacheron Constantin now fits the watch with a brand new automatic movement, Caliber 5110 DT.
On the steel and red gold models, you’ll see two red-tipped hands that add instant character to the second time zone and am-pm designation. The nod to the power of color is not typical for Vacheron Constantin (though you’ll see brilliant hues on many of its incredible Métier d’Art creations), but the red is used wisely here. The new blue-dialed Overseas Dual Time offers more muted white-tipped hands for these indications.
As noted, these hands, and their clear placement on the dial, make it an easy task to read this dial. The 12-hour display is adjustable via the crown in both directions (position 1: local time, independent jumping adjustment; position 2: home time, dragging adjustment of both timezones and minutes) along with a day/night indication set to home time. The date dial at 6 o’clock is synchronized with local time and is set by the pusher at 4 o’clock. Vacheron Constantin has moved the date pusher from its 2 o’clock location on the earlier Overseas Dual Time, perhaps as the new movement requires.
The watch is easily identifiable as an Overseas thanks to its Maltese Cross-inspired bezel and its translucent lacquered dial with facetted (and luminescent) gold hands and hour-markers. Around the back you’ll see the beautifully finished 22-karat gold oscillating weight adorned with a wind rose. As with most steel watches in the Overseas collection, the Dual Time arrives with an interchangeable bracelet and two additional rubber and alligator leather straps matching the dial color, plus an equally interchangeable stainless steel folding clasp. This Vacheron Constantin Overseas dual time model is available in three versions:
• Stainless steel case, blue dial ($24,700)
• Stainless steel case, silver-toned dial ($24,700)
• 18-karat pink gold case, silver-toned dial ($39,500)
New Excellence Platine
In addition to the Overseas Dual Time, Vacheron Constantin has also previewed its newest entry into the Excellence Platine collection, all of which are composed with platinum cases, sand blasted platinum dials and dark blue alligator straps. It’s a luxury package that the brand has utilized since 2006 to house a select collection of simple and complex watches.
In 2018 the newest entry is the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Collection Excellence Platine. Inside is automatic Caliber 2460 QCL that drives central hours, minutes and seconds, complete calendar (day, date and month), moon phase and age of the moon. The unusually accurate moon-phase indication requires just one adjustment every 122 years (compared with three years for a simple moon phase).
As usual with this collection, the watch is a limited edition, here made as a 100-piece edition and fitted with the aforementioned dark blue alligator leather strap, which is made even more luxurious with hand-stitched 950 platinum and silk thread and secured by a polished half Maltese cross-shaped folding clasp in 950 platinum. Price: $68,500.
Specifications: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time
References: 7900V/110A-B334 (steel w/blue dial) and 7900V/110A-B333 (steel with silver-toned dial) and 7900V/000R-B336 (pink gold and silver-toned dial). All are Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces.
Caliber: 5110 DT, mechanical, self-winding with 22-karat gold Overseas oscillating weight, approximately 60 hours of power reserve,4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
Indications: Hours and minutes, central seconds, second timezone set by the crown, Day/night (AM/PM) indication at 9 o’clock synchronized with home time. Date at 6 o’clock, synchronized with local time, set by pusher.
Case: 41mm steel or pink gold, 12.8 mm thick with soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection Screwed-down crown and quarter-turn screw-lock push- pieces, transparent sapphire crystal caseback, water-resistant to 150 meters.
Dial: Translucent blue/silver-toned lacquered, sunburst satin- finished base with velvet-finished flange, white gold hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with white luminescent material
Bracelet/Straps, steel models: Steel bracelet, half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links, delivered with a second strap in blue/black alligator leather featuring a black nubuck lining with a micro-perforated effect, hand-stitched, large square scales. Also delivered with a third strap in blue/black rubber. Stainless steel bracelet secured by a stainless steel triple- blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort- adjustment system. Delivered with a second stainless steel triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and patented interchangeable system compatible with both additional strap
Strap: Gold model includes a brown alligator leather strap with black nubuck lining with a micro-perforated effect, hand stitched, large square scales and delivered with a second strap in brown rubber. Gold model with pink gold triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and patented interchangeable system compatible with both straps.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Collection Excellence Platine
Reference: 4010T/000P-B345, Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Movement: Caliber 2460 QCL, mechanical, self-winding with 40 hours of power reserve
Indications: Hours and minutes, central seconds, complete calendar (day, date, month), precision moon phase, age of the moon
Case: 41mm platinum, 10.72 mm thick, sapphire crystal caseback, water-resistance to 30 meters.
Dial: Sandblasted 950 platinum, “Pt950” hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock, white gold applied hour-markers and Maltese cross platinum moon phase disc
Strap: Dark blue alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched with platinum 950 and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales, platinum buckle with polished half Maltese cross-shaped. Limited edition of 100 individually numbered pieces
“N°X/100” engraved on caseback