As we near the mid-January SIHH 2018, we’ve already seen several exhibiting watch brands show a few watches to preview their complete new collections. We’ve shown you new models from Montblanc, IWC, Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Vacheron Constantin and MB&F.
Below are debuts from Panerai, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Roger Dubuis. Those who subscribe to our free weekly newsletter have already seen our short notices as these debuts were announced. And of course these debuts have also been seen online elsewhere during the past few weeks. Regardless, we’re presenting them today in this condensed post to prepare you for our complete coverage of SIHH 2018 starting January 15th.
Panerai, Radiomir 3 Days Acciaio
Presented at Design Miami earlier this month, this steel model offers a simple dial with blue hands that will recall the firm’s early designs. It has a 47mm polished cushion case, a black dial with the classic sandwich structure, large linear hour markers, figures between the 12,3,6 and 9 and a crystal made of Plexiglas.
Inside, the Panerai P.3000 caliber offers hand-wound power of three days (using two spring barrels). Panerai notes that the caliber is large to echo the size of movements used in many historic Panerai models.
Through the large sapphire (not Plexiglas) crystal on the back you’ll see three brush-finished bridges and a bridge with twin supports holding the fairly large balance wheel. Panerai’s P.3000 movement is specially made to allow the wearer to adjust the hour hand forwards or backwards in jumps of one hour at a time without interfering with the movement of the minute hand or the running of the watch.
Panerai is presenting the new watch (PAM00721) in pear wood box, and will include a second Plexiglas crystal, a personalized certificate with the serial number of the Special Edition and a publication about the Royal Italian Navy, which utilized many Panerai watches and instruments.
Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Casa Fagliano
This manual-wind Reverso Tribute Duoface in pink gold rests on a beautiful Casa Fagliano strap. Driven by the Tribute Duoface concept, introduced last year as Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrated its 185th anniversary year of 2016, it features two independent dials each displaying a different time zone (Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 854/2). On the front hours, minutes and small seconds are visible. On the reverse is a second time zone and 24-hour day/night indicator.
The Casa Fagliano cordovan leather strap is specially designed and handcrafted by the Argentinian leather company. The strap is two-tone with light brown and a darker brown shade on the turned-over flap. It also features a tone-on-tone overstitching on both sides of the lugs. Each strap is handcrafted, with its own unique patina and finishes, making it a one-off. The boutique-only watch will be made as a 100-piece limited edition. Prices will be announced in January.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider and Pirelli
In conjunction with partners Pirelli and Lamborghini Squadra Corse, Roger Dubuis will debut two new 45mm pieces: Excalibur Aventador S and Excalibur Spider Pirelli (In titanium black DLC). The former model is a Lamborghini-exclusive timepiece with a choice of three colors the crown, flange and hands. The unusual caliber is distinctive with an engine-shaped specially developed for the trademark Duotor manual-wind caliber with doubled-sprung balances. A pink gold model issued in a twenty-eight-piece limited edition will also be available.
The Excalibur Spider Pirelli boasts Calibre 820SQ, a beautifully finished skeletonized automatic movement with a micro-rotor inside a fluted titanium black DLC skeletonized bezel and a white rubber over-molded crown (which matches the white stitching on the strap). The strap itself is manufactured from winning Pirelli motorsport tire rubber and features the tire’s distinctive tread on the interior.