After three years of designing, sawing, filing, and assembling, French watchmaker Cyril Brivet-Naudot has released Eccentricity, his first timepiece. Made entirely by hand without any numerically control machine, Brivet-Naudot’s Eccentricity features an original and mysterious time display with one rotating dial for the minutes with a second dial turning inside for the hours. In addition, it features a manual key-winding system, a nostalgic look back to the long history of watchmaking.
Brivet-Naudot, a grandson and great-grandson of watchmakers, is a graduate from the Watchmaking school of Morteau (France) and the Federal Polytechnic School of Lausanne (EPFL, Switzerland), says he has realized his childhood dream of creating an exceptional timepiece by hand.
“I didn’t start from an already existing movement nor standard material,” he explains. “But I designed and drew every piece to measure adapted to the other surrounding pieces, looking for harmony.”
Except for the rubies, metal alloying and the hand engraving, he says all the components were made by hand in his workshop. That includes the plate, the nine separate bridges, the wheels and the pinions, all the screws, the balance and its inertia-block, the escapement, the silver and glass dial, the case with its eighteen stainless steel screws and its horns, the hairspring-stud system, the key and the many pins. Only the rubies, the mainspring, and the balance spring, the glass and the strap are purchased externally.
“I take real pleasure in seeing a lever, a wheel, a shaft or whatever gradually take shape and emerge from the raw material under the action of a saw, file, chisel or other tool wielded by a human hand intent on honing its skills to achieve ever greater precision," he says.
The watch features a “libre excentrique” escapement invented by Louis Richard in 1860 but that has been modified by Brivet-Naudot in partnership with watchmaker Luc Monnet.
The Eccentricity is the first of a series of unique pieces, with each watch ordered as a custom piece. “The style will be mine, but the future owner will define the complications, the display, the materials, the escapement, the layout of the parts and so on,” he adds. Prices will begin at about 60,000 euros, or approximately $70,000.
The basic details of the Eccentricity from Cyril Brivet-Naudot include:
• Hand winding watch, with key
• Time setting with key
• Frequency: 18,000 bph
• Escapement: libre excentrique
• Indication: hours and minutes with rotating dial
• Power reserve: 40 hours
• Case: 39mm
• Alligator strap