Corum has skeletonized its Admiral-based AC-One, creating two new models (an automatic and an automatic tourbillon) with open dials and a lighter appearance than the nautically themed watch Corum debuted in 2013 as a more contemporary version of the historical Corum Admiral.
One of the new 45mm models, the Corum Admiral AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic, lightens the Caliber CO 297 developed by Corum specifically for this model.
The most visible design elements here are the six bridges that harmonize nicely with the twelve-sided Admiral case. As placed around the dial, they complement the twelve nautical flags, which here are silhouettes of the colorful flags that dot the legacy Corum Admiral.
Like many debuts in recent years (from Richard Mille, TAG Heuer, Maurice Lacroix, Hublot and others) Corum’s Admiral AC-One Openwork Automatic rejects the historical notion that skeleton watches are strictly for formal occasions. Certainly lighter than full-dial Admirals, this skeleton version still retains four distinctive dial sectors, including the small seconds, (at 9 o’clock), balance and escapement, barrel and the power reserve indicator (at 3 o’clock).
Kudos to Corum for keeping its large-sized hands within this design. How many skeleton watches have you seen that make it a chore to discern the time? Here, the wide Dauphine-variant hands are hard to miss.
All told, these elements make for a robust openwork design that, however subtly, retains the Admiral’s seafaring origin story to offer a sporty option with technical appeal. The watch underscores how Corum continues to re-invigorate its core collections with interesting, somewhat adventurous new editions.
Corum is offering the Admiral AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic with a titanium case or with a rose gold with black PVD-coated titanium case. The back of the movement is visible through the screwed-in open back. Both timepieces offer water resistance to 100 meters. Prices: $25,700 (titanium) and $32,900 (rose gold).
The second new skeletonized example within the Admiral AC One collection is the AC-One 45 Openwork Tourbillon. The design, again rose gold or titanium, echoes the Automatic described above in most respects, but opens up the area around the 6 o’clock position to make room for a sturdy tourbillon.
With the tourbillon, the watch’s technicality, both visually and mechanically, leaps a notch, even as the dial appears more open thanks to the reduced number of skeletonized bridges. Indeed, the CO 298 automatic tourbillon caliber within is considerably more efficient than the automatic model, registering a full 72-hour power reserve, compared to the 48 hours detailed by Corum for the non-tourbillon automatic.
Corum has equipped both the Admiral AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic and Openwork Tourbillon with redesigned straps made of a rubber surface with synthetic textile underneath. The idea, according to Corum, is to integrate more seamlessly with the lugs. Mission accomplished. Prices: $58,900 (Tourbillon in titanium; a thirty-eight piece limited edition) and $65,800 (Tourbillon in rose gold, an eighteen-piece limited edition).