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Interview: Ulrich Herzog on Oris History, Pilots and Divers

Oris watches are real watches for real people according to Oris CEO, Ulrich W. Herzog. His phrase reflects the Swiss watchmaking company’s longtime credo to make sophisticated mechanical timepieces offered within relatively moderate price ranges.

iW recently sat down with Herzog for insight on the brand and its latest releases like the Oris Calibre 111 and the Divers Sixty-Five. Take a look at this video for the full story. (Note that Herzog, starting January 1, 2016, will continue in the role as chairman of the Oris Group while Rolf Studer and Claudine Gertiser-Herzog have been appointed as its joint executive officers.)

Oris Calibre 111

In 2014, Oris marked its 110th anniversary by introducing Calibre 110, the first in-house Oris movement developed after a 35 year manufacturing hiatus. This year Oris introduced a new manufactured movement into the Big Crown ProPilot series, Calibre 111. The movement features a hand-wound movement with a patented non-linear 10 day power reserve, qualities retained from its predecessor.

Enhancing the movement is a date feature set in the 9 o’clock position, just opposite of the power reserve indicator. The intricacies of the Calibre 111 are highlighted through a sapphire case back, allowing a view of the massive single barrel. Its spring measures 1.8 meters in length.

The watch also offers aviation-influenced design. Its 44mm stainless steel case is finished with a coin-edged bezel inspired by jet engine turbines, while the power reserve is designed to look like a cockpit fuel gauge.

As with most Oris aviation watches, the Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111 carries an oversized screw-down crown. The dial remains easy to read in both day and night with its large applied Arabic numerals and bold hour and minute hands. The watch is offered in four variants: the stainless steel model is available in either a silver-grey dial or sunray black-gold dial and finished with a black crocodile leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet. The collection also offers a rose-gold version with a choice of an opaline silver-gold or maroon dial, fitted on a brown or grey crocodile leather strap. Pricing starts at $5,200

Oris Divers Sixty-Five

Also new in 2015, the Oris FDivers Sixty-Five. The timepiece draws design cues from original Oris dive watches dating back to 1965. Building on this introduction, Oris this past week added a retro-inspired dial option combining grey with a light Deauville blue referencing the French seaside resort.

The new dial complements the SuperLuminova numerals, indexes and hands while upholding the style of the 1960s. Inside the 40mm stainless steel case is automatic Oris Calibre 733 (based on Sellita SW200) with date. This watch has a black aluminum unidirectional rotating bezel and maintains water resistance to 100 meters. Completing its vintage aesthetic, a domed crystal and a black textile or rubber strap.

Price: $1,850

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