No need to fear these skeletons. Displaying their mechanical bones, these eleven openwork watches aren’t afraid to show you how they tick. In fact we saw far more skeletonized watches debut during 2015 than we have for several years, possibly due to a generally enhanced appreciation of mechanical watches and the labor-intensive work required to create them. Finely cut openwork watches require extra labor in the atelier, and the most impressive models are priced to include that extra labor (contact the brand or your favorite retailer for prices for these new and existing models).
This Big Bang Tourbillon 5-Day Power Reserve Indicator is the first of the newer generation in-house Big Bang models to be equipped with a tourbillon. Its power reserve indicator, visible on the dial side, has been remodeled with new bridge and mainplate architecture. This recently released version features Hublot’s own alloy it calls Magic Gold. The 45mm piece features a skeleton movement and a traditional tourbillon with a cage measuring 13.6 mm in diameter – a minute tourbillon that performs one revolution every minute – and whose construction featuring a bridge on the dial side ensures its stability.
New this summer, the First Class Skeleton collection features fluted 42.5mm pink gold case housing manufacture-made mechanical automatic Perrelet P-381 skeleton caliber made in conjunction with its own sister firm Soprod drives three blued hands. The metallic lacework offers an extreme hollowing of the winding weight bearing the brand logo, and it’s visible through the see-through a large central opening and via a sapphire crystal caseback. Each watch arrives with a black or brown alligator leather strap with a pin buckle, also in rose gold.
This new Carrera model displays the Heuer 01 caliber, an openworked model that offers much that is new: TAG Heuer has colored the caliber’s chronograph column wheel red, has skeletonized the chronograph bridge and has blackened and skeletonized the rotor. On the dial side of note the chronograph controls and the openworked date disc, both new sights on a TAG Heuer watch.
As its name suggests, the weeklong power reserve of this 7-Days Power Reserve Skeleton is a primary focus. Thus the two stacked barrels powering the watch for such a long period are front and center here, or more specifically are easily seen just above the dial’s center. Franck Muller has gracefully cleared the spaces around the barrels for easy viewing of the tightly wound strip of alloy. Indeed, the bridges and plates are remade into an airy sculpture, essentially creating from the base caliber 1700 a new caliber, renamed Calibre 1740. The movement boasts an in-house manufactured Breguet hairspring and balance screw as it beats at 18,000 bph. The new 7 Days Power Reserve Skeleton is offered in both 45mm round and 34.9mm by 41.35mm tonneau cases and in a choice of gold or steel.
This new Skeleton Pure celebrates movement architecture by highlighting the layered construction of in-house caliber’s components. The Caliber ARM09-S is skeletonized and the bridges accentuated through 3D PVD colorization. The brand’s artisans have carefully plated the bridges with rhodium. The manual-wind, double-barrel movement offers an eight-day power reserve with hours, minutes, small seconds and power reserve indicator.
The watch is delivered with a genuine dark blue alligator horn-back strap and a white gold buckle as well as an additional dark blue rubber strap. A white gold double-fold clasp is available as an option
The openwork caliber inside the 44.8mm Ralph Lauren Automotive Skeleton recalls a bonnet-free sports car with an unencumbered view of its expertly finished engine. Developed from an IWC manual wind movement with large balance oscillating at a leisurely 18,000 beats-per-hour, the Halloween-worthy movement features blackened plates and bridges that subtly contrast with the black finish on the stainless steel shot-blasted case. All this complements the gentle glow of the watch’s black oxidized hands coated with beige SuperLuminova. Ralph Lauren’s full name in block lettering just below a small running seconds indication that is essentially the only real dial visible.
Extending its 2015 Astral Skeleton timepiece theme, Roger Dubuis debuted this Excalibur Spider Pocket Time Instrument just a month ago. Note the four sprung balances last seen on the firm’s breakthrough Quatuor several years ago. The balances work in pairs to immediately compensate for the rate variations caused by changes in position. This means the watch can operate at an incredible frequency of 16 Hz and ensure precision.
Jaeger-LeCoultre exercises its expertise in the art of engraving with this new Master Ultra Thin Squelette. The openworked dial includes engraved mother-of-pearl detailing along the outer edge framed with a diamond-set white gold bezel. In-house caliber 849ASQ movement powers the 38mm timepiece. Only 4.7mm thick, the watch is available in four variants; gem-set white gold, gem-set pink gold, enameled white gold or enameled pink gold. Each model is limited to 100 pieces.
The Twenty-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon is a 43mm white gold watch with a manually wound tourbillon is equipped with a Swiss anchor escapement and a spiral made out of an unbreakable, self-compensating, non-oxidizing,
anti-magnetic alloy. The DeWitt calibre DW8028s ticks to a traditional slow-beat 18,000 bph, features a variable-inertia balance, a 44° angle escapement and 72 hours of power reserve. Its barrel, positioned at 12 o’clock, is skeletonized in order to reveal the interior of the caliber. The watch also features a carved-out main plate and a sand-brushed nickel silver base with rich blue PVD surface finishing. Note the skeletonized W logo positioned at 9 o’clock, a symbol duplicated on the lower part of the movement.
There’s a tradition of making skeletonized watches in Germany’s watch city, Glashütte, and this Saxon manufactory has created the Senator Manual Winding Skeletonized Edition. Inside is the firm’s own Calibre 49-18, complete with intricate mechanics and artfully executed engravings. The elegant two-hand model is presented in a polished 42mm red gold case that frames the skeletonized manual winding movement. Characteristic of Glashütte watchmaking are the winding wheels with double-sunburst decoration, screw-mounted gold chatons with blued screws, hand-engraved plates and the lavishly finished swan-neck fine adjustment. The watch’s galvanized silver skeletonized dial is enhanced by a black railroad minute ring and Roman numerals as blued hour and minute hands indicate the time of day.
This Silverstone RS Skeleton is forged from a mix of materials like polished steel, ceramic and aluminum, all attached by a rubber strap. Its skeleton dial sports two counters and offers a clear view of its gears, notably its grey and rhodium-plated movement. The lateral porthole on the case gives another view into the automatic chronograph movement that features an oscillating weight with hand-drawn strokes and an openwork balance bridge and plates. The owner can choose from race-team-inspired red, green or blue for the color of the aluminum ring under the bezel.